Travel Diary: The Mosque and Walls of Córdoba

On our first day, I brought you to see the Roman Bridge of Córdoba. We quickly discovered, though, that the bridge as it stands today is probably not actually Roman – it’s more likely to have been built during either Islamic or Christian times. This bridge was the inspiration for the Long Bridge of Volantis.

This time, I’d like to bring you along as we explore the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba, also known as the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba. Afterwards, we’ll check out the walls of Córdoba, as I have some interesting historical details I want to share with you.

Let’s start with the Mosque – it was truly remarkable. It’s important to remember that Córdoba has a long and fascinating history spanning 2500 years, evolving from a Phoenician and Carthaginian settlement into a Roman city. Following the Roman Empire’s decline, the Visigoths governed the city until it was conquered and became the capital of Islamic al-Andalus. It changed ownership one last time when Ferdinand III captured it in 1236. Naturally, the religious history of this place reflects its political one.

I’m fascinated by the Mezquita-Catedral! It actually started as a pretty simple basilica, dedicated to San Vicente way back in Visigothic times. Then, when the city was taken over by Muslims, it seems they used the existing temple for a while. But things really changed when the Emirate of Córdoba was founded – that’s when they started building a proper mosque, which became known as the Mezquita. And over time, they kept adding to it, including things like a mihrab and a macsura. It’s incredible to think about all the history within those walls!

Following the city’s final conquest, Fernando III of Castilla established it as a Diocese. Subsequently, during the Renaissance period, the city underwent further enhancements, including the construction of a new chapel.

The Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba beautifully illustrates that religion in Medieval times wasn’t always the fiercely competitive and divisive force often portrayed in films and by inaccurate historical accounts. People generally lived together peacefully and with mutual respect. Instead of demolition, new rulers simply modified and expanded existing structures. Furthermore, the city also had a significant Jewish community.

This results in some truly remarkable combinations of religious buildings – you won’t easily find anything quite like them elsewhere. You’ll see Muslim arches, known for their vibrant colors, seamlessly transition into the detailed, ornate roofs of a Christian chapel.

Here’s an interesting bit of history: Stone masons used to sign the stones they carved. This allowed them to be identified and receive payment for their work. Around 300 masons were involved in constructing the Mosque.

I also wanted to discuss the impressive walls of Córdoba. Much of them are still well-preserved, though a significant section is gone. I’m still researching the walls and trying to determine whether photos show the interior or exterior side. I believe, originally from a Roman viewpoint, this section was the inner part of the wall. However, as the city expanded, it became the outer face, especially considering how the medieval city developed around the Mezquita. It’s interesting detail that isn’t always obvious.

You won’t believe this, but when the Muslim forces attacked the city, they didn’t bother with a siege! Instead, they actually scaled the walls at night, quietly took out the guards, and just opened the gates. Honestly, that’s really damn impressive to me. It shows incredible skill and daring!

I’ll share my ideas about Granada with you tomorrow. It was the final stronghold of the Muslim kingdom when it was conquered during the Iberian Reconquista.

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2025-09-29 17:43